NYFW SS15: Day 3

I wore: Markus Lupfer dress, Sophie Hulme bag, Karen Walker glasses & Sophia Webster shoes
Image by The Urban Spotter

NYFW day 3 started with a show I, along with every other attendee was seriously looking forward to, Victoria Beckham. After a leisurely stroll the whole way down Broadway (thankfully the temperature had dropped) I arrived at the truly spectacular venue. Between the magnificent domed ceilings with ornate frescoes and handsome, uniformed waiters proffering silver trays laden with Cipriani’s iced tea served in crystal glasses, it was clear VB was pulling out all the stops this season. Indeed, as she explained in the show notes, with the first Victoria Beckham store opening in London this year she felt it was imperative to focus on the DNA of her brand more than ever.

Victoria Beckham SS15

After the standard 20 minutes ish show wait, David Beckham arrived accompanied by Brooklyn, both looking dapper in black suits and double kissed Suzy Menkes before taking his seat next to Anna Wintour. I seriously wish I’d managed to get a snap of this line up, I suspect it would rake in the likes on Instagram. But just as I was attempting to zoom in as much as my battered iPhone could manage, it was time for the show to begin. Victoria promised a redefinition of her aesthetic incorporating new techniques and silhouettes and she certainly delivered. VB SS15 was a far more conceptual and contemporary collection than anything we’ve seen before. Thick utility belts, asymmetrically cut labels and organic fabrics sculpted and contorted into powerful silhouettes offered a tougher, no nonsense elegance underpinned by serious technical expertise. Incredible knitwear was both slightly sportif and intricately crafted with knitted lacing detail. Monochrome ribbed tank dresses gave way to svelte suiting in rich burgundy through, bursting into a finale of overblown neon pink florals. It was an utterly precise and incredibly imaginative collection; a bold move that confirmed, as if confirmation were needed, that Victoria is capable of so much more than great dresses.

We left the show to a photographer frenzy, even more so than usual no doubt thanks to David and Brooklyn’s attendance. For some reason I decided that it would be a good idea to get a cab on Broadway, despite the gridlocked traffic. Suffice to say,  it was not, and we arrived at MILK Studios for Public School so late the venue was already over capacity and weren’t even letting any more people with tickets into the show. This was a total testament to how incredibly brilliantly the design duo are doing – as if the CFDA Award wasn’t already – but it was also maddening as I was devastated not to be able to see the show. I consoled myself with a nice magazine accompanied lunch at Soho House before making the short walk to Centre 548 for Porsche Design.

Porsche Design SS15

Having not previously had the slightest clue that Porsche design clothes other than the standard car brand merch’, I didn’t know what to expect here and felt unfoundedly sceptical about the whole thing. But as the first look hit the catwalk, a sleekly sculpted, obi belted black dress, it was clear that design director, Thomas Steinbrueck really knows what he’s doing. In a palette encompassing stark neutrals and clean pastel hues, the collection had a feel that was futuristic, minimalist and moneyed. Everything was sculpted to within an inch of its life and accompanied by pared back but extremely luxurious accessories. Admittedly a lot of it was not my cup of tea and the use of shiny rubber struck me as rather strange and definitely uncomfortable. That said, the pieces were each immaculately crafted, precise in their cut and some of the lighter, softer looks were lovely. Regardless of what I personally felt about the collection, it was undeniably technically well constructed, high quality and utterly on brand for Porsche.

As we all know, fashion shows never ever start on time. This results in a lot of high speed dashes which can be slightly perilous in high heels and despite knowing full well that that the next show will start the best part of half an hour after it’s scheduled kick off, I inevitable panic and rush so much I either fall over, break a heel or arrive a sweaty, stressy mess. Having missed Public School just hours before, I wasn’t taking any chances and quite literally ran the 15 blocks to the Thakoon show venue. On the bright side, this did perhaps make up for the fact I only managed to summon the energy or inclination to work out once (for all of ten minutes) during NYFW SS15.

Thakoon SS15

Regardless of the fact that running was entirely unnecessary, if I had missed Thakoon’s show I would have been totally devastated. I’ve long been a big fan of his work and this collection, his 10th on the New York Fashion Week schedule, was utterly excellent. Inspired by the 1959 film, Black Orpheus, Panichgul offered up a vision of exotic elegance that will translate wonderfully to the city. Silhouettes were loose and fabrics louche; sumptuous satins in polkadot burgundy, vibrantly printed cottons, chiffon pleating and structural silk gazar with intricate floral motifs. Detailing and layering were key here with fringing taking centre stage on pattern clashing looks that were every bit as wearable as they were painstakingly constructed and visually arresting. Creating clothes that are both fun and grown up is no mean feat and Thakoon gave a masterclass in achieving that fine balance this season. Even a model taking a tumble couldn’t distract from the impression made by his collection.

Love Ella. X