NYFW SS15: Day 4

I wore blouse, skirt, sunglasses, bag and shoes all by Tommy Hilfiger 
The Urban Spotter

On NYFW SS15 day 4 I finally managed to do what I’d been planning to all week; wake up at 5.30am, work out and then get a morning’s work done on London time. Suffice to say, I was insufferably pleased with myself as I picked up an iced latte and boarded the subway (no extravagant hangover induced taxi taking for me!) to shows. Up first was Tommy Hilfiger. As you know, I love me some All American prep and Tommy seriously knows how to put on a show. During my dressing appointment the previous afternoon I’d been informed that this season he’d be pushing the boat out (more so than last September’s indoor sand dunes?) so I couldn’t wait to see what he had in store. I was also, for the first time ever, wearing flats to fashion week. I thought this day would never come but the stompy, clompy, ponyhair confections from Tommy’s AW15 catwalk won me over…

What a venue!

Within a second of arriving I realised that when team Tommy promised a spectacle, they weren’t messing around. The Park Avenue Armory had been transformed into an old school rock festival, or at least a fashion take on it. Given that Hilfiger’s SS15 collection paid homage to a music festival muse, it seemed appropriate that the show opened with Tara Ferry on the drums and Georgia May Jagger on the catwalk. As for the clothes, well, they were certainly slicker than your average Glastonbury get up. There was almost military esque striped brocade tailoring complete with waistcoats and baker boy hats, capes featuring epilets, patchwork denim and oversized cardigans with “Rock n’ Roll” motifs. Glimmering metallics were paired with skinny scarfs for max glam rock effect and wetween the sequins, dyed fur, patent leather and flares it was less boho love child and more seventies swagger, a groupie style I definitely prefer especially on the catwalk. Stars were a recurring motif on dresses, sweaters and a teeny bikini modelled, of course, by Kendall Jenner.

Tommy Hilfiger SS15

Feeling thoroughly perky post show I made an unnecessarily long journey downtown due to the fact I managed to take the wrong subway line, twice. Luckily I had time to spare so arrived at the Rosie Assoulin presentation without getting into too much of a fluster. Rosie is a designer I’m not super familiar with, not entirely surprising as she’s only been going a year. I had, however, been spotting her statement tops all over instagram as in that time Assoulin’s managed to garner a cult following that has captivated the fashion crowd and beyond. The directional elegance that has made Rosie a favourite among the likes of Leandra Medine and Miroslava Duma was firmly on show at her SS15 presentation which featured dresses sculpted in cotton, grosgrain and raffian as well as menswear staples and unusual items like shirts, pyjamas, aprons transformed into exquisitely chic eveningwear. Assoulin has a knack for achieving razor sharp yet softly flowing cuts and no piece is without a form of surprising, imaginative detailing. Think cut away backs, rainbow layered cape sleeves, tartan circular skirts, asymmetric lacing and pearl buttons. The collection was an utterly unique array of entirely different creations, each individually exquisite and even more impressive displayed together. No obvious “theme” but an unmistakeable style and degree of skill holding them all together. I suspect we’re going to be seeing a whole lot more of Rosie Assoulin in the future.

Rosie Assoulin SS15

After a brief pitstop at Soho House to recharge my metaphorical (me) and actual (my iPhone) batteries it was on to my penultimate show of a rather relaxed day, Milly by Michelle. In actual fact my day wasn’t meant to be quite so relaxed but the NYFW schedule is so packed that a lot of good brands end up showing at the same time in different venues which leaves you with some uncomfortable choices, but anyway I digress. The show opened with a black mesh skirt and bomber combo, paired with a white tee and knotted head scarf, not exactly the girlishness you’d usually associate with Milly by Michelle Smith. Indeed, this was a sportier and dare I say, naughtier affair than the brand’s usual. Think baseball shorts, monochrome crop tops and sheer mesh, neoprene and body con a’ plenty styled with low key black plimsols. Just as I was starting to feel a little bummed out by all that monochrome, Michelle hit us with garish-in-a-good-way cobalt blue and marbled prints. Outfits concocted from flesh flashing laser cut fabric confirmed that this is a collection for the body confident while graphic cartoon esque motifs and highlighter bright tech fabrics has a faintly 80s streetwear feel. As a lover of all things girly and floral and pretty I’m usually a sucker for Milly so this wasn’t my favourite of the brand’s collections but it was certainly very well done and proved that Michelle can do a whole lot more than cute cocktail dresses.

Milly by Michelle SS15

The second Michelle took her now, accompanied by her adorable daughter, we leapt from our seats and legged it to the Stylist team’s car. No way in hell were we missing 3.1 Phillip Lim! It was a very full house indeed, but of course, Lim has been the man of the moment for many moments now and rightly so. With a recently opened boutique in London and his new New York Flagship opening that very evening, it’s a very exciting time for the designer and given my bordering on unhealthy feelings about Phillip Lim’s work, I had been eagerly anticipating his show. Eventually a light chiming soundtrack began and the lights went up, moving into a rich pulsing beat as the first models hit the runway. Opening with fluid lines and waved edged, sculpted confections in ice white and yellow, there was a serenity to the collection apparent from the word go. Rich, textural embroidery adorned modern, sports inspired pieces with racer backs and curving hemlines enhancing the juxtaposition of opulence and athleticism. Every piece, from silk slip dresses to bomber jackets and cigarette pants, was immaculately tailored and realised in a delectable range of fabrics and colours spanning from slick leather and soft jersey in panelled black, navy and emerald green to lightweight woven fabrics with braiding, wicker like laser cutting and graphic, abstract prints in moody shades. It was just exquisitely chic, modern and achingly cool summer attire. Phillip Lim totally nailed it, as always.

3.1 Phillip Lim SS15

Another NYFW SS15 over and out! Although the night was just beginning… More coming soon.

Love Ella. X