NYFW AW15 Day 4

I wore: Milly by Michelle Smith coat (available here), jumper (available here), skirt (available here) & bag (available here) with vintage hat and Mulberry boots
Image by Mario VillanuevasImage by Mario Villanueva

I awoke bright and early on NYFW AW15 day 4 and steeled myself for another day of seriously extreme cold. I promise I’ll try to stop ranting about the temperature soon but seriously, minus 16 degrees with wind chills of minus 20 is no joke! After finally managing to post my day 1 show diary and get my LFW schedule into some sort of order I layered up my neon tweed Milly by Michelle Smith ensemble and headed out. First port of call was Starbucks, obvs then I tackled the subway and headed uptown for the Tommy Hilfiger show.

Since I’ve been attending Tommy’s shows we’ve been treated to a surfer’s paradise beach and glam rock music festival to name just two. I certainly wasn’t expecting this season to be any less spectacular and indeed, we were not disappointed. The Park Avenue Armory had been transformed into a football field complete with score boards, helmets, giant screens projecting the model’s cards and “play book” style press releases on individual clipboards placed on each our seats. Once everyone had posed, preened and instagrammed the crap out of their surroundings, Rita Ora rocked up in a fabulous red fur and it was time for the show to begin. Opening with the sound of roaring fans and Destiny’s Child, the first models strutted out clad in adorable capes and peacoats in shades of navy trimmed with caramel. The football themed colour palette continued, as did Tommy’s humorous riff on the subject by way of flared hem flippy cheerleader esque skirts, harlequin plaid alongside football jerseys and varsity jackets reworked into playful separates.

Tommy Hilfiger AW15

The preppy sportswear inspired fare included athletic skater dresses and leather two pieces complete with white stitching echoing that of balls themselves and oversized lettering. Was it subtle? No. Was it awesome? Hell yes. Not only did Tommy Hilfiger deliver a gloriously inventive, elaborate set up but a killer collection too. Anyone who might accuse him of being too gimmicky would de well to consider each excellent piece minus the deliciously OTT styling. Tommy Hilfiger didn’t create a billion dollar (check) empire based on novelty alone.

Tommy Hilfiger AW15

No one left the show without a smile on their face, until we found ourselves out on the frigider than frigid streets that is. After a very chilly journey downtown I made camp in Pret to down gallons of soup, take full use of the free wifi and avoid going back outside for as long as I could. Eventually it could be avoided no longer so I made my move and headed to the West Village for Rosie Assoulin‘s unmissable presentation. It’s easy to see why Rosie has become something of an industry/influencer obsession. Her directional, unconventional yet utterly beautiful contemporary evening wear just gets stronger and more surprising by the season. AW15 saw Rosie deliver a delicious array of sculptural, dramatic silhouettes ranging from supersized culottes (more culottes!) and super fluted skirting to waterfall wool hemlines and bustle esque detailing formed from vast swathes of glimmering metallic fabric. This season saw the welcome introduction of more daywear too including kimono esque brushed silk two pieces, elongated cotton shirting and pinstriped wool pants, paired with ice white sneakers, providing the ultimate cool girl uniform for autumn. It was an utterly excellent, captivating collection that marked Rosie Assoulin moving from ultra talented fash pack darling to bonafide brand.

Rosie Assoulin AW15

After a brief sojourn at Soho House where one is guaranteed to bump into half your iPhone contacts list and get absolutely no work done I, stupidly, decided to walk the 9 or so blocks to the Milly by Michelle Smith show. In case it wasn’t already abundantly clear, this proved beyond all reasonable doubt that I’m a damn fool. By the time I arrived I’m pretty sure my entire face had gone purple which will no doubt make for some interesting street style shots. For once the sheer volume of bodies packed into the show space was welcome and I’d just about regained feeling in my extremities by the time the first model hit the runway. This season saw Michelle continue in the streetwear inspired vein of SS15, crafting full skirts, bodycon dresses and neoprene cocktail dresses. Inspired by Grace Jones, there was a distinctly 80s feel to the colour palette with clashing highlighter hued woven jacquards, fine techno knits and scrawling fluoro motifs. The construction on display was certainly impressive; razor sharp cuts, sturdy 3D embellishment and immaculately sculpted silhouettes. The mock pieces, random buttons and satin looks fell flat with me but Smith’s raw hemmed, contrast coloured dresses were excellent and one particular gritty girly confection in purple glitter and ink black wool had me reaching for the heart eye emoji.

Milly by Michelle Smith AW15

There was no time to freak out about the cold upon leaving Milly’s venue (*insert collective sigh of relief*) as I had barely ten minutes to peg it uptown for the 3.1 Phillip Lim show, one I would sob like a small child if I missed. Phillip Lim is nothing if not an incredibly smart designer. He understands his customer intimately and always delivers pieces they want to shop without ever compromising on innovation. His shows always make me want to be a cooler, chicer, more badass version of myself and AW15 was no different. The show opened with a gloriously thrown-together-looking mash up of glossy oil slick black leather, casually arranged plaid and fierce open toed, lace up stiletto ankle boots. The entire collection played beautifully on the contrast between sharp tailoring and devil may care drapery. Ice white tuxedo jackets were paired with asymmetric hemlined flowing skirts of the same hue, skin skimming leather moto vests with oversized pants, deliberately distressed mohair with elegant wool cigarette pants. It was a perfectly formed, ingeniously layered yet deliciously déshabillé collection boasting killer outerwear and wonderfully counterintuitive fabric use ranging from shimmering silk parkas to cocktail frocks panelled with lumberjack checked wool.

3.1 Phillip Lim AW15

For AW15 Phillip Lim grunge luxe, downtown dwelling style obsessive with a knack for concocting outfits that always appear effortless when they are in fact anything but… And in doing so once again made me rethink my entire wardrobe.

NYFW AW15 day 4 was one that seriously set off sartorial split personality tendencies. My next port of call post 3.1 Phillip Lim, after a rapid outfit change into something entirely inappropriate for the weather, was Alice + Olivia. This brand is every glitter loving girly girl’s fantasy and makes me go weak at the knees every time I encounter one of its many, many covetable concoctions. I’ve never not loved their stuff but for AW15, Alice + Olivia took things to a whole new level of awesome. I was, for once, distracted from how bloody freezing it was (sorrysorrysorry) by the glittering fabulousness on show. The magnificent surroundings of the Prince George Ballroom provided the perfect backdrop for a collection that oozed baroque-and-roll decadence from every fibre. Blending together late 60s and early 70s references, Stacey Bendet offered up a mouthwatering array of sweet separates, perfect cocktail dresses and co-ords galore

alice + olivia by Stacey Bendet AW15

With silhouettes kept classic, the designer was able to go to town on texture and pattern. Think rich jacquards in burnished metallic motifs, diamond panelled silks, feathers, lace and of course, lashings of sparkle. I don’t think I can stress quite enough how madly infatuated I am with Alice + Olivia’s AW15 collection. Creating clothes that appeal to a sparkle-and-prep loving consumer but remain intelligently, skilfully designed enough to garner rave reviews is no mean feat but this season Stacy Bendet more than managed it.

As you’ve no doubt gathered, it was a long ass day. But a great one, finishing up with Rag & Bone at Spring Studios. It was a true testament to the brand’s allure – and the willingness of fashion folk to risk pneumonia for the love of great clothes – that despite it being 8pm and so freezing that your breath basically came out ready frozen, the venue was packed out. Rag & Bone founders, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright made their label’s name through savvily reworking menswear staples such as traditional tailoring, sportswear, workwear for the female form; creating slightly androgyne pieces guaranteed to exude nonchalant cool. This season saw those skills at their very best with the addition of 90s hip hop references that shone through their silky puffa jackets and pops of garishly good neon brights.

rag and bone AW15

Layering is always an important component of the Autumn/Winter collections and has been more emphasised than ever this season. At Rag & Bone it took centre stage with silky slip dresses worn over skinny moto pants and skinnier knits, with outerwear in innovative fabrics over the top. It was a show that ingeniously juxtaposed feminine and masculine styles and boasted standout outerwear that will cause a stampede when it arrives in store. 4 days down, 3 more to go… And then we get on to London.

Love Ella. X