PFW AW15 Day 1

Wearing Milly by Michelle Smith coat & bag, Maje blouse, Michael Van Der Ham shorts, Kate Spade New York shoes & Sunglasses
Image by David Nyanzi

At last we enter the final leg of our fashion month journey, PFW AW15, it’s been one crazy month! Thank you for sticking with me all the way, I know some of these posts have been a *bit* wordy. The morning after the REMIX 2015 final I was up at the crack of dawn; a painful experience given what little sleep I’d had in rather a long time by this point; and my oversized baggage and I were off to Paris…

After sleeping the entire slight I remained so knackered I actually fell asleep standing up at the baggage carousel and found myself suddenly on the floor, very embarrassing considering this was a “fashion plane” and I was surrounded by Marni clad Milanese editors who presumably didn’t conk out in public places. Regardless, once I was on my way I started to get VERY excited about Paris. As I’ve definitely told you before, when people ask me which fashion week I enjoy the most, or which is the best, I genuinely don’t have an answer. Each has it’s own star shows, extravagant parties, local pals and unique ambiance. That said, there is definitely something special about Paris. Maybe it’s the fact that it’s the original and boasts spectacular shows like Chanel, maybe it’s the fact that it’s the last one and everyone’s on the home stretch with a spring in their step. Or maybe it’s because the city is so goddamn gorgeous, I don’t know. Whatever the reason, the mood seems jovial and the pace slower (the French still believe in lunch breaks) which is reason enough to love it, and that’s not even beginning to think about the clothes. My initial plan was to whiz in to my apartment for an hour or so’s work, a much needed wash and an outfit change before heading out to Barbara Bui. Then, as you no doubt know, laptopgate occurred. Not to be over dramatic, but breaking my laptop was easily the worst thing that could have happened, given that my entire life, career, schedule and all the assets n’ info for the many projects I was juggling were on there. So my afternoon was instead spent at the apple store before suddenly realising the time and being late to the Mulberry x Galeries Lafayette party and dinner at La Belle Epoque… So I things could have been worse. Basically, this is a very convoluted way of telling you that I in fact kicked off PFW AW15 on what I’d planned to be my day 2, phew!

Chalayan AW15

Chalayan AW15

First up, Chalayan, which was as expected, sublime. In the stunning surroundings of the Palais Beaux Arts, Hussein wowed us all with his artistry, boundless imagination and technical wizardry. Elegant tailored coats, suits and separates in understated neutral hues were elevated by proportion distortion and fabric manipulation; dropped shoulder, fur panels, cut outs and tailored fabrics snaking around models’ necks. Making neutral wool tailoring into something otherworldly is no mean feat but Chalayan made light work of it. It wasn’t all neutrals of course. Chalayan created a unique array of prints, from graphic spray paint splatters layered over sepia toned houndstooth check to intricate mountain peaks and 3D textured abstracts.

Chalayan AW15

Chalayan AW15

Evening dresses came spliced from seemingly contradictory fabrics that wafted deconstructed and flowing, hung by spiderweb fine threads. With Chalayan, nothing is ever quite what it seems. The more you look at his creations, the more detail and depth you see.

Issey Miyake AW15

Issey Miyake AW15

Hussein finished off the show with a cheery wave and we all piled out and promptly legged it en masse to the Tuileries for Issey Miyake. We needn’t have rushed, of course, as there was then the mandatory half hour delay while everyone fannied about taking their seats. Fashion shows always, always start about half an hour late and in Paris, even later so I had plenty of time to take my seat and wonder what was in store for us this season. Issey Miyake is another iconic designer whose work never fails to uplift and amaze. Using his innovative steam stretch technique, the designer offered up sculpted confections in fabrics that appeared at once both light as and dense; like clouds right before a storm, an apt metaphor perhaps considering the moody, hyper saturated shades that permeated the collection.

Issey Miyake AW15

Issey Miyake AW15

 

Miyake has a unique gift for infusing incredibly complex, sophisticatedly constructed pieces with an air of innocence, almost childishness. Despite the dark colourfulness of his palette on this occasion, there was something playful to it and the 3D, multi hued rubix cube concoctions in patterns inspired by snow crystals put a smile on everyones face. As for the finale; a group of models opening out their obi belts to reveal multi coloured flag like skirts and began to twirl as the lights went up; it was utterly joyful.

Issey Miyake AW15

Issey Miyake AW15

After grabbing a quick bite and popping into a few presentations and showrooms it was time for my third and final show of the day, Isabel Marant. I was pathetically delighted to find myself sat on the front row with Gala Gonzales, Nicole Warne, Helena Bordon, Chiara Ferragni et al and suspect the novelty of that happening won’t wear off anytime soon. Aside from making me feel happy, this seat afforded me a great view of a collection that was well worth waiting an hour plus for. Isabel Marant is a very smart designer. She knows what her customers really, really want and finds a new way to give it to them each season while ensuring that every piece is so in keeping with the boho-meet-urban-luxe aesthetic she has carefully cultivated that it couldn’t be by anyone but her. For me personally, I think this marks the moment I turn all out Marant devotee.

Isabel Marant AW15

Isabel Marant AW15

The neat fitting, woven Ikat patterned white knits; the thigh (or really crotch) skimming flippy minis in pleated wool or breezy layered and printed chiffon; the marinere Breton stripes; the barely-there white dresses all styled with sassy, black, military inspired ankle boots. It was just so damn good! French girl cool at it’s absolute coolest with lashings of irresistible insouciance. Marant also took high waisted skinny jeans to alluring new heights with navel covering, super tailored pairs in her trademark lazily geometric motifs and classic hues with button up fronts and as a result, I suddenly feel ashamed to wear anything that doesn’t cover my belly button.

Shows done for the day, I wandered home via Starbucks (in Paris, sacre bleu!) to get ready for another night on the town.

Love Ella. X

Leave a Reply